VRINDAVAN, India (RNS) — In this major pilgrimage center for the Hare Krishna movement, Purnendu Goswami survives as a rare atheist.

Goswami, 44, runs the Bindu Seva Sansthan ashram in this northern Indian town that is considered sacred in Vaishnavism, one of Hinduism’s main branches. Dressed in a white robe like any local guru, the plain-speaking Goswami holds retreats and classes in ayurveda, the traditional Indian healing practice, in what is, in this landscape, an exotic milieu: a nonbelievers’ spiritual healing center.

Hindus believe that Vrindavan is where the Hindu god Krishna spent his childhood in divine play, and the area is dotted with more than 6,000 temples to Lord Krishna and his consort Radha.

As religious beliefs in India have become militant under the

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