Tourists from China attend a Durian food festival in Bentong, Malaysia [File: Sadiq Asyraf/AP]

Raub, Malaysia – As a child, Kenny Wan Mun Hoe delighted in the flavour of the custard-yellow durian – one of Malaysia’s most popular seasonal fruit his parents brought home each season for the family.

“I loved it,” the 39-year-old Malaysian recalls, his face lighting up at the memory of how they would mix the unctuous flesh with white rice. “The durian was always sweet and kids love sweet stuff.”

Now with people in China discovering a taste for the fruit, known for its thorny shell and overpowering smell, Wan has his own durian farm and ambitions not only to export to mainland China, but to become one of

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